The “hoop on stick” build style fits the rim to the neck rather than the other way around. This is a photo essay of my process fitting the rim to the neck.
Finding the Bridge and Rim Locations on the Stick
In the photo above, I’m using a ruler to find the bridge placement. I mark the bridge location on the stick. This helps me find the ideal placement for the rim and the bridge’s location on the head. This neck is built for a scale length of 23.6 inches with a 12 inch rim. In the photo below, I’ve laid the rim on top of the stick so I can visually gauge the placement of the bridge as it relates to the rim. After I’m sure that I have the rim in its ideal location, I make a mark on the stick at the scoop and tail end. The rim shown in these photos is made from a high quality multi-ply drum shell.
Finding the Center Line of the Rim
Centering the rim on the stick is customary, but not truly essential. It’s something I do and encourage others to do, but if it doesn’t work out for you when using a hoop on stick build style, don’t worry about it too much.
Remember that the centerline of the banjo is the path of the third string. To find the centerline of the rim, make a pencil mark perpendicular to the edge of the rim, then measure the outer circumference of the rim. Then divide by two. Use the mark at the tail as your starting point and measure halfway around the rim. Make another pencil mark there. This is where the scoop side on the rim will be. Double check your measurement by starting back at the mark at the tail and measuring around the other side of the rim.
A flexible tape measure such as a seamstress’ tape can be very helpful for this job. I use a clamp to help hold the ends of the tape.
Finding the Depth and Width of the Stick
I use a long ruler and a small square to help find how deep in the rim the stick should sit. As shown in the photo above, I place the edge of the ruler on fingerboard, then I place the square at the mark that represents side of the rim up next to the scoop. Then I use the measurement showing on the square minus 3/16 of an inch or so. The main thing here is that the plane of the fingerboard sits above the plane of the head so that the strings can pass over the head without buzzing against it. It may be helpful to make note of the measurement. Later it will be used to mark the rim.
Finding the width of the stick is also necessary. I use a center-finding ruler and the mark I made at the scoop side of the rim as seen in the photo above.
Marking the Rim
After finding the depth and width for the stick, I use the little square and a ruler to mark out the hole for the stick. The centerline that was marked earlier makes this job easier. After the hole is marked, all the layout is done. I like to lay the rim on the stick and see if anything looks weird about it or if it’s ready to go. If all is good, it’s time to transition to cutting the hole and fitting the stick.
Cutting the Hole
I use a couple of clamps on a low table to hold the rim in place while cutting the hole. I start by drilling four holes in the rim, one in each corner see below.
Then, I use a jig saw to remove material from the center of the hole. After the jigsaw, I use a small power sander to cut a little closer to the final dimension, then I transition to hand tools for final fitting. The photo below shows some of my favorite rasps and files.
The photo above shows the stick mostly fit. I arrived at this point by inserting the stick, wiggling it from side to side and front to back to determine where material needs to be removed from the hole. Once I’ve decided where material should be removed from, I take the stick out and work on the hole with rasps and files. Then I test fit the stick again noting where material should be removed from. I repeat this process until a snug fit is achieved and the tail end of the stick touching the inside of the tail of the rim. I make a mark to help find the center line of the rim from the inside.
After the rim / stick fit has been established, the fit should be evaluated using a ruler. Does the fingerboard have enough clearance over the head? How is the neck angle? After these details have been investigated it may be time to drill a hole in the rim and stick for the end pin screw.
